I say if you're going to use military styles, go for the older ones. I've got a British style wool greatcoat from the WW2 era and a Swiss wool waistcoat with brass buttons. You can usually find stuff like that at reasonable prices online, as long as you go European and not American. In my experience the American gear is ghastly expensive and, in my opinion, it doesn't look nearly as cool. Not really "goth", I suppose, but still a nifty alternative type of style.
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"I saw Judas Iscariot, carryin' John Wilkes Boothe." - Tom Waits
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